Seiko

Seiko is one of Japan’s most respected and innovative watch brands, best known for its rich history, technical achievements, and commitment to quality. Founded in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori in Tokyo, the company started as a small shop repairing and selling clocks. Over time, the business grew into a global powerhouse in watchmaking, and along the way was responsible for some of the most groundbreaking and shattering events in the watch industry.

Kintaro Hattori was only 21 when he opened his clock shop in Ginza, Tokyo. By 1892, he was able to expand his business by starting the Seikosha (meaning 'House of Exquisite workmanship) factory, which produced clocks and later, pocket watches. By 1913, Seiko produced Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel.

The company adopted the name “Seiko”, meaning “exquisite” or “success” in 1924 as the company’s official brand name for its watches. This decision underscored Seiko’s commitment to accuracy and reliability, principles that would become central to its brand identity. By the time of the second world war, Seiko was producing over 1.2m watches a year, including watches for the Japanese military, and in 1964 Seiko gained international recognition as the official timekeeper for the Tokyo Olympics

What makes them special?

The Quartz Revolution/Crisis

At that same Olympics, Seiko introduced the world's first portable quartz timer. Five years later, the Astron debuted as the world's first quartz powered wristwatch. Whereas traditional watches kept time through intricate gears and springs, Astron used a quartz crystal oscillator to keep time with unbeatable accuracy. The novelty and precision of this new technology initially made quartz watches extremely expensive, and many luxury brands tried to capitalise, however, quickly it enabled the costs of production to be drastically reduced, bringing in brands like Casio (who were making calculators) into the industry which made cheap, accurate time-tellers accessible to the masses.

The effect was to turn the entire watch industry on it's head, as the establishment had to adapt to this intense disruption. Some did, and many mechanical watches shifted to focus on high end luxury; while many did not or could not change, leading to many brands going extinct. While there were definitely some sad losses during that time, Seiko undoubtedly prompted a step change in the industry at large.

A tale of two factories

One of the reasons Seiko was able to get ahead was it's unusual approach to innovation. The company had two factories, Daini Seikosha and Suwa Seikosha. Rather than run the company as one unified business, these two factories were encouraged to have different business strategies, models and to develop different technology. The business units would strive for different targets (such as winning international awards) and then share their technology with the other so they could continue to advance.

This does give rise to some confusing product histories. Some watches were produced by both factories and can be differentiated by a small logo on the dial or case back that tells you which factory.

Other watches were produced only by one factory. For example, each factory produced some legendary pieces. In the 1970s, Suwa broke records with chronographs named after the 6139 movement (such as the first automatic chronograph), while Daini were inventing icons like the 7016 'Monaco'.

There aren't many internal corporate motivation techniques that are so widely known among fans of the brand as this duelling factories technique.

Icons

During the 1970s and 1980s, a surprising number of celebrities and movie stars wore Seikos, both in their daily life and in movies; which means several Seiko watches have associations with famous people or movies. This adds cool story appeal to your arm clock. Others have links to racing drivers, astronauts and other pioneer types. Seiko occasionally acknowledges this but it's rarely part of a marketing ploy.

Some associations which have include:

• The Arnie - a chunky analogue/digital watch worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in Predator and Commando

• The Bruce Lee - a 6139 chronograph supposedly worn by Bruce

• The Ripley/The Bishop - futuristic 80s quartz chronograph watches worn by the cast of Aliens

• The Willard - the 6105 dive watch named after Martin Sheen's character Captain Willard in Apocalypse Now

• The Pogue - the first automatic chronograph in space worn by astronaut Captain William Pogue

Why we like them

Seiko have some fabulous history to them and produce some great value watches currently. They have a lot of respect among watch enthusiasts, though people often view them as a more budget watch brand. During the 1960s - 1970s they were really awesome, not just because of the innovations, but the designs were wild. It's astonishing how many different variations exist amongst the ranges, meaning it's possible to pick up some real gems if you know where you look.

They hit multiple price points and have top notch watches in most categories, but other than the collector's favorites (like some of the old dive watches), they can usually be acquired inexpensively. Compared to a Swiss watch they are relatively cheap to service and unless you get an obscure one, the parts can be usually sourced easily.

Lines like the King Seikos are considered by some to be on a par with (if not superior to) Rolexes of the same era (1960s-70s) but they can be picked up for a fraction of the price.

The sheer variety of Seikos and the ratio of quality to price make them hard to beat and it's likely there's something for everyone within their vast back catalogue, you just have to look.